Dartmoor National Park in Devon, England, is a landscape of untamed beauty, where granite tors rise dramatically from the heather-covered moorland, and ancient history whispers on the wind. While this rugged wilderness is best known for its walking and hiking trails, a road trip—often referred to as the ‘Dartmoor Drive’—offers a captivating way to explore its heart, uncovering picture-postcard villages, prehistoric remains, and legendary landmarks at a comfortable pace.
The Route: Through the Heart of the Moor
There is no single, prescribed “Dartmoor Drive,” but a network of scenic roads that traverse the National Park, allowing for flexible itineraries. One classic route often starts from the eastern edge, weaving west through the moorland’s most famous spots.
Starting Point: The Eastern Gateways Begin your adventure from a charming village like North Bovey or Bovey Tracey. From here, the drive quickly ascends onto the open moor. Your first major stop should be the magnificent Haytor Rocks. A short, easy walk from the car park takes you to the summit of this iconic granite tor, rewarding you with panoramic views that sweep across the moor to the coast on a clear day.
Moorland Mysteries and Ancient History Continuing west, the landscape becomes wilder and more remote. The B3212 is a popular stretch, leading you past sites steeped in history.
- Grimspound: Take a detour to see the well-preserved remains of this Bronze Age settlement, an enclosure of stones surrounding the ancient roundhouse-style huts of a village first settled around 1300 BC.
- Postbridge: This is a mandatory stop, famous for its beautifully preserved medieval clapper bridge, a slab-stone structure spanning the East Dart River. It’s a perfect spot for a photo and a riverside stroll.
- Warren House Inn: Near Postbridge, this is the highest altitude pub in southern England. Famed for a fire that is (allegedly) never allowed to go out, it’s a wonderfully atmospheric place for a break and a hearty pub lunch.
Princetown and Literary Legends The drive often leads to Princetown, a town synonymous with the forbidding granite mass of Dartmoor Prison. Here, the Dartmoor Prison Museum offers a fascinating, if sometimes grim, look into its 200-year history.
Nearby is Wistman’s Wood, a vestige of ancient dwarf oak trees, their branches tangled and covered in moss and lichen, giving the area an otherworldly, almost fairy-tale atmosphere—it’s worth a short walk from the road to explore.
The Southern Loop: Villages and Vistas The southern part of the drive introduces you to some of the park’s prettiest villages and tors.
- Dartmeet: Where the East and West Dart rivers converge, this scenic spot is perfect for a picnic and is often bordered by picturesque fields and an 18th-century bridge.
- Widecombe-in-the-Moor: Known for its striking St Pancras Church, nicknamed the “Cathedral on the Moor” due to its imposing 120-foot tower. The village itself is full of quaint cottages and cosy inns.
- Hound Tor: A must-see, this dramatic cluster of boulders is widely believed to have been the inspiration for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s classic novel, The Hound of the Baskervilles. At its foot are the remains of a deserted medieval village, adding a layer of melancholy history to the view.
Essential Driving Tips
Driving on Dartmoor is an experience in itself, but it requires caution and respect for the unique environment:
- Mind the Wildlife: Dartmoor is home to its famous wild ponies, as well as sheep and cattle, all of which roam freely. They frequently stand on or cross the roads, so a slow, patient, and careful driving speed is essential.
- Narrow Lanes: Many roads, especially the scenic detours, are single-track with passing places. Be prepared to reverse and pull over for oncoming traffic—it’s part of the Dartmoor etiquette.
- Fuel and Refreshments: Petrol stations are few and far between on the moor itself. It is wise to fill up before you enter the National Park, with towns like Ashburton or Okehampton being the best places for fuel.
- Weather: Dartmoor’s weather is notoriously unpredictable. Sun can quickly turn to dense, disorientating mist (known locally as ‘Dartmoor Fog’), so always carry waterproofs, and ensure your fog lights are in working order.
The Dartmoor Drive is more than just a road trip; it’s an immersive journey through a landscape that is both rugged and beautiful, ancient and ever-changing. It offers a chance to connect with a wild corner of Britain, full of folklore, history, and breath-taking natural drama. Just remember to slow down, look out for the ponies, and let the magic of the moor unfold around you.